Snippets week six

Shopping is an adventure, not always sure what we are getting. Our Czech hostess, when we showed her a small can we thought to be sweet corn, advised it go right into the rubbish. The latest Mueseli is brown and crunchy. I have wondered if it came from the cat food dept, ( and my  worst thought is that it is kitty litter.)

 My watery  experience this week has been a Theraputic Kniepp bath. When I saw it on the map my mind turned to hot plunge pools and maybe a water slide. So it was a surprise to find a few folk assembled by a fast flowing small stream, deep in the woods. Two jolly girls encouraged me in to the icy water. There were rough steps down the bank, and a st ring hand rail down the middle of the flow. Once in the water I was told to high step, like a stork. We went round and round the hand rail, laughing quite a bit. When out, drying was snot allowed, justo brushing the water off. It seems Herr Kniepp deemed bathing in the cold. Danube, at all seasons strengthen the lungs. We are approaching the Swabian A lps, and I will report any improvement in my lung function.

Delights.
I am suddenly a huge enthusiast for the Baroque style. The Frauenkirchen  in Grinzburg  is a sublime example. Pink marble,, lots of gold, flowing shapes and gentle decoration every where. The side altars, a in Dessau, had some intriguing relics, bejewelled skeletons, shrunken heads and ancient fabrics, encased. In glass, with golden frames. Just as I have got excited about it, we are heading into the land on half timbered houses and more austere churches.

For 400 Kim's now we have been following the Danube cycle route, Radweg. It is proving a very easy and happy way to travel. We probably will not get stuck in a no exit village on the wrong side of a motorway,,  or trudge through a kilometre of sand when we did not understand a "road closed" sign, as has happened. We have a handy guide book that points out all the special places, and has minute details of the route. We follow small roads, tracks through the woods and riverside paths. And best of all there is little or no traffic.. We are not a novelty, well apart from our age, and we don't need the help of strangers, which  has often led to fun experiences and new friendships. The net work across Europe is extensive and offers its own challenges.

I have bought shoes, shocking pink Clarks lace ups, and they make me smile.

A Cycle Tour Recipe

Equipment

One Trangia Cooker, with Meths Burner

(Metholated Spirits is not a common name in other parts of the world, so a lot of fun can be had finding the right word for each country and putting up with all the jokes about not drinking it - wink, wink, nudge, nudge)

Our Trangia has two sauspans and a lid which, flipped over, becomes a frying pan.

Ingredients

• One cob of roadside corn (ensure the farmer is not in the adjoining field). If not available, substitute and small tin of whole corn or peas. 

•  One, slightly tart, roadside apple (take care your bike does not fall into a ditch while gathering) core, remove grubs and dice.
• Two plump tomatoes - halved and quartered (Not available singly in Aldi, Netto or Lidyl Supermarkets - note these have very cheap goods, but everything is packaged to the hilt and there are no baskets supplied for those who travel by bicycles and by necessity, have  small orders)
• 1/2 a Zucchini - diced
• One small Onion - diced
•  Approx 10 slices of thin Bacon - this bacon is shaved, not sliced

• 2 small handfuls of Pasta (Polish, Czech or German)
• Four Tablespoons cooking oil, (whatever is available in 500ml bottles) this meal was Olive Oil.
• 1/2 to 1 Vegetable Stock Cube (depending on how much salt needs to be replaced after a hot days ride and the sausage has oodles of salt as well, so take care here)
• 1 Tablespoon Tomato Paste
• 3/4 mug of water or juice from Peas or Corn can (or if you have bought a $1.50 bottle of undrinkable wine, one or two mugs of this)

Method.

• In one saucepan, heat oil, toss in onion and cook till soft then add the Tomato, Zuchini and Apple, stir often to prevent sticking. When tomatoes have reduced down, add additional liquid and stock cube. Simmer for five minutes, then set aside.

• Bring two mugs of water to boil in the other saucepan, add pasta and corn cob, boil gently for five or six minutes. Check corn cob for tenderness (it could be a stock-feed variety and need more time) - drain and serve along with the bacon and vegetable sauce.
• Cook Bacon gently in pan on top of corn and pasta.

YUMMY.

Observations.

There is a very strong connection to pigs in the countries we have ridden through - also a very strong smell of the same animal. Yesterday we visited a lovely town where every second house had a farmyard piggery, I suspect the population of pigs would have made it a city, while the population of humans was around 1000.

They are celebrated in various ways

Seen Floating down the Donau River on a Sunday.

And passing through the Woods

Odd Thoughts from the Cycleway

I have been scouring the roadsides for treasures. In NZ there is always something lying beside the road, broken bungy cords, good bungy cords  ( my favourite bungy on this trip was aquired on the road near Milton on my South Island circuit in 2011) busted load straps, half a load strap in good condition, even  the odd spanner and as previously mentioned in another Blog, Banana skins in all manner of disguise.
But on this trip, after crossing two countries and now in our third - Zilch, Kaput, Nit, Nothing.

But I have not despaired, there is excitement along the way if you look closely, lots of grubs, slugs and other critters of the meadows, who, for some unknown reason, have to make the journey to the other side of the road, cycleway or footpath. I guess life is like that , when the call comes from the other side, you just have to go, no matter what.

And what a dangerous trip it can be, depending on time of day, location, highway or byway and I guess it even occurs on the Motorway, but that would be a journey of mere millimetres I am sure.

It was not hallucination, though the day was very hot, and one wonders at the sheer gall of this small vulnerable ground dweller, but there he was, standing up to the rolling traffic and issuing his challenge, what could I do but admire his guts - admire but not examine -

 I heard a high pitched squeaky voice say

"Make my Day Punk"

so I backed off just in time and left him on his merry way.

Val week 5(ish)

Boarder crossings

We once asked for our passports to be stamped when we arrived in Slovenia, from Italy.  Once the official was awake, it took quite a while to find the rubber stamp.
Yet I am still foolish enough to expect a bit of razamataz when we cross in to another country.  Maybe  a bloke in leather shorts to welcome us, a trumpet or two, flag waving, balloons and so on.  We entered Germany , pleased with ourselves,  shook hands, took some photos and had some wine for tea.

As well as liking swims, I like baths. In the sort of accommodation we occasionally visit, their is unlikely to be both a bath and a plug. It is surprising what can be achieved with one of those very floppy plastic bags, the sort that gets stuck in the sink, and floods the  laundry, and a length of electrical tape. My first bath in a month, in a deep shower tray  was most rewarding.

I have yet to meet a person who,  when told we come from New Zealand, does not look dreamy eyed, and gives a huge smile.  Everyone plans to visit, and imagines a beautiful and friendly place. Lets keep it that way.

We have packed well and economically for this trip.  We have everything that we need and scraped in to the thirty kg airline weight limit nicely. But why,oh why did i. Pack the lovely purple whistle, bought in Canada, to scare off bears. I am slightly hopeful of a moment to give it a blast.

Delights, the biggest and the best.

When discussing a route into Germany we were warned of high mountains and very busy roads. So it was surprising to find a cycle only road, and hardy a hill. We then chanced on the Aidlebert Stiffler  rail route, 30 Klm's of gentle down hill, through lovely forest and glimpses of lush farm land and Bavarian villages. We free camped in the forest, and read that we were in the the biggest continuous forest in Europe, reaching into Austria, Czech Republic and Germany.

Delight 2 The biggest church organ in the world is in Passau. It is five separate organs, each with its own sound character. We sat in the impressive baroque cathedral, and heard a short recital. While the music may not have been my favourite, the quality, strength and variety of the sound was truly  impressive, as was sharing the experience with several hundred people.

Delight 3 Today we saw from a good distance a Roman temple, high on a hill overlooking the Danube Valley. We puffed up many steep steps to Walhalla, a faithful replica of the Parthanon.  It is said, in the guidebook, to be the most important classical German structure of the 19th Century.

Valhalla, Bavaria on Donau

View from Valhalla

Tomorrow I am shopping for shoes.

`Don's Impressions of Prague.

The heat buildup was getting intense, 35degrees the day before and same forecast for the day, apart from this a good cycle road into Prague was hard to find, so we took the train from Kolin.Val marched up to the ticket box with a cartoon, two bikes and two people in outline. No English in the ticket booth, as expected, but tickets emerged. We hoped the bikes were included.

Getting to Platform 3 in the middle of a five platform cluster, meant bouncing down the stairs into the access  tunnel. There's a train sitting on No 3, could be ours, but to get up the stairs meant unloading panniers, however another cyclist sprinted over, grabbed the back of Vals bike, panniers and all and between them they landed on the platform above. He then dashed down the stairs and did the same for me.
Val is talking to the guard, the door of the train is open and our bikes are on board in no time.
Wow, a guard that is helpful. No English, but it's obviously "Tickets Please"
Val has trouble finding the tickets, turns everything out on the floor of the goods carriage, the Guard waits with a patient smile and just when we thought we'd have to pay again, the tickets flutter out from the pages of a notebook.`

Forty five minutes later we are trying to get out of the Prague Central Station and into the city, without navigating stairs proved a challenge, but we soon found ourselves in a rubbish strewn park, looked like a camp ground for street people and there were quite a few, more than we'd seen elsewhere (other than Paris and Los Angeles).

We needed a break and so (wash our mouths out) we stepped into a Starbucks, where Val had a mint tea, I had a coffee and the Chocolate cake got an 8/10 

In St Wenceslas Square we came across two German touring cyclists who spoke English and they put us on track to the camp ground, where we booked in and were braceleted on the wrist for the duration of our  stay. Security was tight here, we were even challenged when leaving and had to produce our receipt before security man would open the gate.

We though the small tent area was overcrowded when we arrived, but each time we came back there were another ten or twelve tents crammed in.

Alongside us we had a young South Korean film maker, on his first trip to Europe and was negotiating with the Camp Manager to put on a selection of his films to the campers. (See last paragraph)

We explored Prague on a very hot Sunday, lunched on top of a hill overlooking the city alongside a replica of the Eiffel Tower and were entertained by a street performer who alternated between two types of bird before donning a set of Elephant ears. He was low on the ladder of mime, but at least was working for his zlotties (or whatever) as opposed to those begging for a handout.

In Cambodia they have a small denomination note worth 100 "thingies" (which are less than a US cent), my daughter in law told me to carry a wad of these around and give some to everyone, which is quite a nice way to behave. Carrying a bag full of copper coins would be rather uncomfortable, especially when, like us you are still struggling to know the value of them when you cross a border.

Somehow, and she always manages, Val found the way to the Gallery of Modern Art, a massive building which has now been converted into the most spacious art gallery we have ever seen. The building had sinister overtones though, as it had been a central point for holding people bound for death camps during Hitler's reign of terror.

Oh, and they did have a Henry Moore and some strange Doggy Sculptures.

We emerged into a violent thunderstorm, leaves whipping around corners, people running for cover and down along the river branches were being torn from trees and strewn along footpaths. In the gloomy light of premature evening, we managed to make our way back across the city (Val's navigation skills to the fore once again) arriving back at Sardine Camp, to find out tent quite unscathed.

That night we watched Avant Garde South Korean movies with titles like "Know You" and "Mumming", the multi-cultural audience somewhat bemused, if not confused, the message lost in the night air, technical aspects looked really good and our young neighbour was ecstatic at having the opportunity to show his work and seemed to be pleased with audience reaction. To stand up in front of the audience and in shy broken English tell us something of the background to his project was very brave. He packed up and headed for Vienna the next day with a big smile on his face.

Snippets 4
The first 1000 Kim's.
Even thought my Odo is generous, we have done the first 1000.
This has taken us from Warsaw and into Czeck Republic in the area known as Ceska Raj/ Paradise in the North East. Amazing geology , lovely scenery and good biking but sadly for the locals few tourists in the nice little camp grounds and villages.

We biked to Prague and stayed in an inner city camp ground. We probably did not do the lovely place justice, staying only 2 nights, but the heat and vicious thunder storms made us restless.

We are now heading south towards Austria, or Germany, depending on the height of the mountains. We are loosely following the Vitara river cycle way. The river is well damed, so seems more like a series of lakes, often in deep gorges. But we have enjoyed lots of god biking, on well made cycle tracks.
The heat has definitely been to main challenge, well into the 30,s most days. Money goes a long way, beer is almost free. Falls, two for Don and one for me. Punctuates one, (amazing really). Friendly helpful people... heaps.

Colourful swims.
My dear Aunt Wigs loved to swim, and when she came to NZ was found at every opportunity in the water. She was even tempted by the waste water pond at The Chateau. I too need to swim, so why am I in central Europe in  high summer about a far from the sea as could be. I have managed some "Wigs style dips". The first was very green, water full of bits like a lightly blended pea soup. Another was toffe coloured, my body totally invisible beneath the water, and yesterday I had a more refreshing cool of in well brewed tea. Maybe the mountains will offer something crisp and sparkling.. Pic ton friends, please remind me to swim earlier, later and more often in our crystal, crispy sea this summer.

How come a piping hot cup of peppermint tea can be so refreshing on a hot hot day???

The body
Before I came away my Doc told me to get over it...... how could I not have some arthritis at my age. One knee was quite sore, kneeling and squatting a bit of a chore. And now???? Almost no trouble at all. When I get home how can I possibly find time to bike six hours a day and live on the ground. Likewise in the first week it seemed that the bones in my pelvis were determined to burrow through my bottom and connect with the saddle. They too have have given up the fight and accepted the biking life.

Today a young cyclist stopped for a chat, and looking round our bikes asked if we had electric assist.... , wash your mouth out ...maybe when we are eighty I said. Maybe. We are lucky our bodies are doing so well

Val,s snippets
SAK.

Well, we had what we thought was a successful conversation with a woman in the Super Market queue. We told her why we were buying one tomato, a slice of cheese and a shaving of salami, (cos  we have to carry it, and its hot).

So,off she goes, to  her tourist hotel just next door, and presents us with,  not only a couple of filled rolls, very  nice too, but two huge beer glasses. We could scarcely get them to the next town in one piece, so now our next new  friend Richard, has them in his bar.

A close  contender for Spontaneous Act of Kindness for the week would have to the guy who helped lug my fully loaded bike up a steep set of steps to platform 3 , and then gave Don a hand. The train was all closed up and puffing, about to depart. The guard also was a hero, having the bikes into his guard van, meters about the platform.

Delights.
Rounding a sharp corner, on a country road,  there was a huge paddock, alive and glowing with the colour of a million marigolds in full bloom.

Good stuff.
The zillion muzzy bits on my bottom have stopped itching, and we seem to have left the land of biting ants.
It's a bit college today and wine once again has an appeal.

There is nothing like a Warm Shower

Hospitality and a Warm Shower
For about five years Val and I have been members of an International Organisation known as "Warm Showers" - This is designed for touring cyclists who join up and give and receive hospitality from other cyclists.

At Kolin, 60k's NE of Prague we met the Tvrznik family. 

An email the day before (short notice at the best of times) had not got through, so I rang on the mobile at 1pm in the afternoon "Could we stay the night" "Yes that will be fine "said George
George's profile on the Warm Shower's website states "Ten bikes in our shed we are not cyclists, but trips to the shop by bike are the thing"

George and wife Dana, both teachers, are raising their 5 children to be confident and useful citizens.  We  d not meet their 8 year old son who had set off that morning, alone, a three hour journey to visit his Grandmother, with cellphone for emergencies and money for buse and train fares .
George and Dani spoke good English as did Elisabeth 12, the eldest and the other children were eager learners. They host both WS and CS guests and the night before we stayed they hosted a family of five French cycle tourists.

 

We had a meal with them around a large family table, Dani's  mother lives with them in the house she has lived in most of her life. George talks English at  a fast clip, rarely lost for a word, but every now and then, rolls his eyes upwards searching for a word, then off again. We were told lots about the National psyche, the countries education system, the state of the economy, relations with Russia to name a few. (Next mornings paper had an article on the President who had been told that 40 cigarettes and many whiskies a day were not good for his ailing health - Dani's Mother, who spoke no English was very voluble on the subject)

Before the meal was over George had organised for us to stay two nights, and spend the next day visiting Koutna Houra, one of the Republics notable historic and beautiful towns, Elisabeth and Anastasia, were assigned as guides.

We had a delightful day with our two young friends, Elisabeth conducting all transactions with confidence.

They selected one Cafe for lunch and a second for sweets, the only sour note for Elisabeth was getting raspberries instead of Blueberries in her ice cream sundae.

We set out to climb the highest church tower in Wroclaw, Poland. At the top of the first spiral stair way we were obliged to buy a ticket and take the lift. The well proportioned priest was entertaining as  he escorted us heavenwards, and we enjoyed splendid views of the city below.
Time to go down, and the well proportioned Priest encouraged, no demanded, that all 12 people pile into the lift. He then launched himself at the crowd, Japanese train guard style, and just closed the door. A small voice from the back said, in clipped accent, "it says this lift takes 6 people".

Cycle touring nightmares 1
When approaching a cross roads one realises that it is a T junction.

Nice Surprises

Rounding a bend and seeing four acres of Marigolds.

Richard takes us to Dinner

It was our third camp in the Czech Republic,

situated on the shores of a fresh water lake at Ceska Skaljce just outside the city of Nachod When the camp owner walked up, I greeted him with my two words of Czech, then the standard

 "Do you speak English

"Yes I do, and I wish I did'nt"  Solidly built, shaved head, with a big hole in one earlobe, he looked like a tough cookie.

"Oh, why is that" I asked

"My wife is American and I have to speak English all the time at home!"

He had been an economic immigrant, presumably legal, worked in the States for 7 years on building sites and in that time met his wife.

"Problem here tonight is, we have no power" The storm we had experienced at the previous night's camping ground had been widespread, and late the next day they were still working to resore power.
"That's ok" I said, but in reality we were using camping grounds to keep our artillery of electronic gadgets charged up.

Chatted for a while, then unpacked and began to set up camp. Shortly our host came over and sat down,
We introduced ourselves, his name is Richard.

"I would like to take you out to dinner tonight, I have to pick up my wife from work and we can go to a restaurant for  a meal. Only thing is I have to leave in 25 minutes.

Well, the offer of a meal is hard to refuse at the best of times, but when you've just hopped off your bike after a hot 60ks ride, it's a no brainer.

"Well that would be very nice, we can be ready by then"  Must be that his wife just loves to find someone else to talk English with. A fast ride into the city -

"Does your wife know we are with you?" I asked

"No" Richard replied. What had taken us an hour on the bike was compressed into a five minute car trip.

A pleasant short haired woman of medium height was standing outside the pickup point when we shot around the corner almost bowling her over. Giving Richard a lpuzzled ook, she hopped in and we were introduced to Rachael, she teaches English as a second language, on contract and works 70 hour weeks.

Something was going on, there was tension in the air, but Rachael made a nice fist of chatting to us and finding out where we were from  and what we were doing.

We got seated in the restaurant and the tall dark headed waitress (named Luci) came and took our drinks order, and then things began to unravel. It became clear that our role in the evening was that of a foil, taking the heat off Richard over something that had been going on in their lives recently.

It appears that a highly intelligent "nutty professor" type had stayed at their camp and tried to get Richard interested in investing in some form of 'bio building method"or system, on which the Professor had spent the last 20 years of his life, his life savings and his marriage and was now fleeing from his desperate wife who was filing divorce and trying to pin down some of the last shared assets for her security.

The wife had been ringing , the Professor was lurking, Rachael thought he was a potential phychopath and the whole affair was throwing their already turgid life into overdrive.  After ten minutes on the sidelines, with a thrown line or two  of explanation, they finally put the matter to rest for the evening, Richard, drawing a sigh of relief and we had a pleasant evening with very nice Czech food.

 Rachael & Richard

It's tough in the business world of Czech Republic, their camping ground business is undermined by local farmers who rent out illegal sites to fishermen and the local council does nothing about it.